Dengan Basikal Aku Menjelajah S3E9 – Horse Riding in Kyrgyzstan

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there is no strength in this world that can last forever no one can stay young forever without getting old no daylight can last forever without turning into night I keep travelling… while I’m still young and strong… always looking for experiences from all corners of the world this time I’m travelling on skis through the thick snow to discover places that I could never reach with my bicycle and when the snow finally melts I continued my journey on horseback observing with my own eyes… …the life under the shadow of the Tien Shan I explored Kyrgyzstan… admiring the natural beauty and the uniqueness of the nomadic way of life throughout my journey to the celestial mountains 12 July 2015 it has been almost 6 weeks I’ve been travelling crossing a desolated place in the Tien Shan mountains alone in both easy and difficult times learn to accept anything that comes to life everything that have been written I was only accompanied by my 2 horses along the journey a special animal that I wasn’t used to in the beginning but now they’re like my family we moved slowly from river to river… grass to grass slowly leaving Issykkul region and seeing the changes of the terrain when I was entering the region of Naryn in central Kyrgyzstan after more than a month riding my horses crossing the mountains of Tien Shan in Issykkul region on the eastern part of Kyrgyzstan I almost reached the Naryn region in central Kyrgyzstan everything that were difficult in the beginning have turned easy I was getting used to my daily routine travelling on horseback getting used to the things that I supposed to do depending on the position of the sun in the sky living the nomadic life I no longer measure time by week, day, hour or minute but I only measure the time by the position of the sun in the sky measuring time with the distance of the sun with the horizon the position of the sun also allowed me to identify my direction my time also depends a lot on the weather and the terrain here in this journey, I tried to live in the most moderate and simplest way tried to live my life like a traveller in the ancient times as long as I can and one day when I returned to the modern world I will try to see the modern world from the eyes of an ancient traveller try to see this life from totally a different perspective I still riding through a vast grassland here but I started to see snowy mountain peaks in Naryn region from afar and sometimes I came across a group of sheep and cows here indicating that there are nomads living nearby travelling on summer became easier because there are many locals here building their yurts around the mountains here making it easy for me to ask for direction to get to my destination after I crossed into Naryn the terrain changes the hills here became steeper I reached a higher altitude and my horses moving slower and nervous because they’re not used to the condition here because of that I had to become more strict with my horses my friend Almaz told me before not to be afraid when crossing deep rivers and when descending steep mountainside because horses can feel our emotion they will be brave if we are confident and otherwise my horses will usually feel afraid to cross deep rivers and rocky areas especially white rocks and sometimes I had to calm them down and pulled them slowly to cross rocky areas crossing the mountains in Naryn region I came across Naryn horses along the journey who are mostly smaller in size but more agile to cross the mountains here compared to my current horses travelling on a horseback which was very strange to me at first has now turned easy and I got used to travelling this way I learned not only to understand but I learned to think like them to think like a horse I started to see the grass as my food so that I can understand what kind of grass is good for them I learned to be afraid of rocky area just like them so that I will stay away from rocky area myself I also learn to use my instinct to see if my horses are tired and hungry so that I know when to stop to put them to rest in places with fresh green grass I started to learn to know which grass are fresh with the smell and colour the more sensitive I’m with my horses the closer my relationship with them and it will get easier for us to travel and cross the mountains together my work begins right after I stop and put my horses to rest and I will keep working until morning when I’m getting ready to get back on my horse to travel further ahead when my horses are resting in the evening I will tie my horses in a place with fresh grass before pitching my tent after an hour putting them on fresh grass I will take them to the river for drinking after a few hours I will put them in different location so that they will always get fresh grass to eat during the night I will get up from sleep once every few hours to check their condition and watch over them from wolf attack this routine will continue till morning when we are ready to keep moving the our next destination since I arrived Naryn region I had difficulties to travel with my horses they started to become nervous to descent from the steep and high altitude mountains we moved slower because they kept stopping when going through steep areas sometimes I had to be very strict with them but they still insist to move forward I had to be patience crossing the mountainous region here while my horses feeling nervous here living my life here on the road is just like any other life with the same cycle of comfort and hardship after being in difficult times for many days I began going through sweet memories that I can never forget I finally reached a small village deep inside Naryn region Ormon Khan I rested for a few days in Ormon Khan and put my horses to rest in a fertile fresh grassland I received a very warm welcome by the locals here and almost everyone in this village know me they don’t called me with only my name Zahariz but they also called me “Giobala” which means son in law because this is where my wife came from almost everyone in Ormon Khan have been waiting for me for many days with my horses since I left Jolkolot village in Karakol for than 5 weeks ago and they were very happy to see that I arrived this village safely they treated me like their own family like I’m a Kyrgyz myself and I feel like I’m back at home in my home country while I was resting here after a few days of rest I returned to the road slowly leaving Ormon Khan taking a lot of food supply given to me by the villagers there I started to go through steep hills and once again my horses had problems moving in high places I moved very slow due to this problem almost 6 hours to travel only 25km because my horses insist to descend the mountains here I travelled to Kol Ukok a mountain lake with an altitude of over 3000m and when I was reaching the lake I had to go through a very steep cliff it was there when my horses stopped didn’t want to proceed because they were too afraid to climb the cliff I had to put them to rest temporarily for a few minutes at the bottom of the cliff feeling lost… I didn’t know what to do during that moment it was during that time a shepherd came fast with his horse from the top of the cliff I seek his help and he told me that my horses will give me a lot of problem because my horses are not suitable to cross this kind of terrain he then offered me to trade our horses which is a Naryn horse a type of mountain horse that is very agile moving in the mountains I then tried to ride the mountain horse and was amazed to see the mountain horse running easily over the steep cliff near Kol Ukok I finally managed to cross the steep cliff and reached Kol Ukok lake safely and pitch my tent to rest for the night there I wasn’t only managed to see the beauty surrounding this lake but I got to see the friendly locals here finding food by catching fish on the lake here I’m very thankful even though there were many difficulties and challenges I had to go through everyday on my journey I will usually get to see breathtaking views in the evening after I pitched my tent which is like a remedy to my exhaustion after a whole day going through hardship

 

10 Responses

  1. Mairaa

    December 3, 2019 2:11 am

    Kampung Ormon Khan tu agak terpencil nmpknya ye? Ada jalan raya tak ?
    Seronok tengok wajah anak2 comel sambut you 😊

    Reply
  2. Mairaa

    December 3, 2019 2:15 am

    Pernah tak ada perompak or lanun or gangster ganggu you kat situ? Nampak mcm semua org Kyrgyz tu baik je budi bahasanya. Tk tunjuk rasa curiga dgn orang asing, kan?

    Reply

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