Ultimate Guide on How to Paint Model Horse White Markings

, , 8 Comments


Painting white markings on a model horse can
feel like the bane of a model horse customizer. Keeping white markings smooth and dust free
while keeping your sanity are just a couple of the struggles! But you can break the hobby curse. There are techniques to make markings easier,
smoother and way better without losing all your hair, and that is what this video is
all about. I’ve broken this tutorial into three, short
parts that will help you mix the best whites, avoid application mistakes, and keep them
super smooth. So let’s cover the first one! While it looks wonderfully bright, the most
unrealistic thing you can do is paint with pure white like titanium. Real horses aren’t actually pure white. There’s a lot of cream in them, and that’s
also a great way to create the illusion of shadow. Often times, pink shows through too, where
the hair is thin and you’re actually seeing some of the skin color. Therefore, mix a buttery white. Mix about two parts titanium white, to one
part pearl white, and one part gesso. The final touch is just a tiny bit of titan
buff. When I’m mixing for stablemates, that is
a little drop. That pearl white helps add a bit of sparkle
(also great if you had metallics in your body color). The titan buff tones down the brightness,
and so does the gesso. Granted, you can vary your mixture a bit. For example, my highlight areas have slightly
more titanium white, and my shadow areas have more titan buff. It will add contrast, making it feel like
your whites are bright, but keep them realistic. Also, the gesso is sort of a secret recipe. Since white paints no longer have lead in
them, they are really transparent. This was good for our physical health, but
the loss of opaqueness from the lead doesn’t help your sanity. Gesso is the only safe medium that has some
opaque qualities to it, so adding it to your white paint helps with the transparency issue. This means less layers and less chance of
ripping your hair out. Another added bonus of gesso is that it will
help keep your paint sandable, but more on that in a short bit. Now not all gesso is created equal, so much
so that I actually usually hate this medium for one reason…a lot of gesso brands are
flexible. You DON’T want a canvas gesso that is flexible
if you are working with stiff plastic models if the adhesion is poor on rigid surfaces. That flexible quality is perfect for canvas,
but without great adhesion it usually means it peels right off your plastic model. So when buying gesso, make sure it is for
rigid surfaces, is sandable, and has strong adhesion. It’s hobby standard when mixing whites to
thin them down to the consistency of skim milk, or thereabout. Important to know is your thinning options. Water is definitely an option, but unless
your house is on a filtered, softened system, tap water is something to be weary of because
of potential minerals that could affect the color of your paints as your model ages. I recommend using distilled bottled water
for model horse painting to maintain the purest colors. There are also mediums you can buy to thin
your paints, but do your research to make sure they won’t add discoloration too. I’ve had success with airbrush mediums and
I usually opt for the same brand as my paints so that I know they are formulated to work
well together. Personally, I’ve noticed a difference between
airbrush medium versus water that has its own pro and con. The con is that it goes on a little thicker,
making it trickier to apply. But the pro is that once you master that thicker
coat, it sort of congeals on itself and settles in. This means you don’t have to be as intense
about eliminating brush strokes because it’s slightly forgiving. Emphasis on slightly…you still want to brush
it on as thin as you can. It just won’t ever be as thin as water. Which brings me to our final section… Yes, thin coats are your best friend, but
breaks are your friends too. It’s much easier to paint whites if you
allow 10-15 mins in between each coat to let them dry. Your whites as a whole will cure better this
way, especially if you only paint say, four coats in one evening, and another four coats
the next day. But the biggest secret for smooth whites is
ultra fine sandpaper. Got a little chunk of paint stuck on a leg? Brush strokes? A stupid dust bunny? That sandpaper will take care of it. So easy. Also, wiping off your model after the paint
has hardened and before starting another session is big for keeping dust bunnies at bay. Also, store your horse in a cheap little plastic
bag to keep dust off of it as it cures overnight. And there you have it! Your all in one guide to painting model horse
white markings like socks, pintos, and appaloosas. No go paint ponies! For more videos tutorials, please subscribe
to my youtube channel, at Blue Mountain Stable and visit my website www.bluemountainstable.com. Also check out my social media accounts for
more regular tips and insights into how I customize. Thank you for watching!

 

8 Responses

  1. TnT Horse Crazy

    September 17, 2019 3:23 pm

    Oh thank you so much for posting this amazing video! This is going to be so helpful <3 😀

    Thank you so much for sharing ;D

    Reply
  2. Khimera Studios

    September 27, 2019 2:00 am

    Quick question….when I went to put some of the airbrush medium in my Blick cart, I noticed there were two kinds to choose from; the one in your video, and a high-flow version. Have you tried both? I'm curious as to your thoughts on their differences, if they have any significant enough to really notice. 🙂

    Reply
  3. Schleich andhorselover

    January 16, 2020 4:11 pm

    Beautiful video! It's so handfull! Thank you so much!
    Your video got such good quality too! What editprogram do you use to edit your video's if I may ask? 😀

    Reply

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